Saturday, July 31, 2010

Traditional with a Twist...

A while ago I stumbled upon this house in Chene-Bougerie, Switzerland and really enjoyed how they'd turned their home into a modernized version of the a-typical Swiss Franco-style chalet...

...they maintained the wood herringbone floors, of which I've a HUGE soft spot for...

...the kitchen is a bit modern, but they did an excellent job of creating kitchen workspace without affecting the perimeter of the room and breaking the visual aesthetic look of having those wonderful french doors in every room on the first floor as is "typisch"...

...honestly its the little details such as the slanted off-kilter bookshelves that can separate a renovation from being another bland re-hash of whats already been done, and something that pushes the boundary and does something truly unique and ...Fun!...

...pay no attention to the turtle in the room...um...its there to show
the scale of the room...yes, that's it...

...AND! They left those AMAZING stone stairs up the back stair hall!!!...

...more turtle mayhem...but we wonder, how does he open those doors...

...who wouldn't want violently-vivaciously-vibrant-verdant green in their bathroom?...

...Honestly, apart from the architectural details (notice the use of recessed lighting) they've used their ...progressive colour palate to turn what would have been a stock standard traditional Swiss house into a uniquely interesting play on tradition... Now if only they had more furniture...

Saturday, July 24, 2010

Lanvin Menswear - Fall 2010...

For some reason there has always been a great divide within the Fashion industry which perpetuated a disjointed aesthetic between Menswear and Womenswear. For some reason the looks walking down a menswear show beared little resemblance to their womenswear counterparts even insofar as having completely different inspirations, stylistic themes, colours and construction. However, thankfully enough, that has begun to change. More and more designers are looking to create an aesthetic which unites both menswear and womenswear under a unifying vision, or quite literally the "perfect couple".

"The perfect couple", you ask? For so many of the great fashion houses who've always been known as leaders in the womenswear field, this drive to create the "boyfriend, of the girl who wears (Insert Designer name here)", is a welcome change from the previous collections of recycled tired old suits, ties and the odd shoe simply to please the investors and keep duty free stores stocked full of ties, watches, and cufflinks that have little to nothing to do with the brand's aesthetic. When a menswear collection can hold its own against its zeitgeist making womenswear counterpart (Balmain, Givenchy, etc), that is a truly rare designer. This is why the new Fall 2010 Lanvin collection is such a welcome change from the norm.

The women's collection began as being loosely inspired by the North African desert regions, yet managed to infuse an ethnic albeit thoroughly modern urban aesthetic into the collection. The mens collection, maintains this modern ethnic vibe and expands upon it from a men's perspective. As is to be expected from Alber Elbaz, the Lanvin women's collection naturally is a billowing, well draped and graceful collection even if it has that hard urban warrior edge to it. From the men's perspective I got much more of a...hate to say it...starwars vibe here.

Now just hear me out on this one...

One of the first looks down the runway features this very tribal metal piece under
a suit which for me helped set the stage right off the bat as more of an ethnic collection...

...But modernity quickly became apparent once one took a closer look at the shoes; a sort of snake skin ethnic / modern age version of a wingtip with those modern adjustable straps in place of the traditional shoelace...

...And this was where I got that Anakin skywalker-esque
North-African inspired merchant-mercenary-airplane pilot look...

...With the billowy striped shirt and the pants that looked like a parachute material?...

...And the stringy, laced-up canvas satchel...

...North African merchant-mercinary modern interpretations of the leather duster?

...sort of an interesting gauze-like sci-fi-esque shirt...

...cut-off sleeves, longer tunic-like over-coat reminds me of a blacksmith,
or possibly a mechanic within this post-apocalyptic vigilante desert world...

... definitely a tunic...note the rough construction and a
wrinkled quality to both the pants and the vest...

...The materials call to me the most as being very
aeronautically related, but in a futuristic sense...

...wonderful juxtapostion of the rough and satin like textures, reminds me
of a tuxedo...the most modern sort of paired down sense of the gesture...

...True to form they did have suits, but even these re-enforced the design aesthetic...

...Saw this shot. Loved it. Its not entirely the sort of thing you'll ever see me personally walking down the street in, but it has that rare moment when everything comes together. The photography, the billowing overcoat in the background expressing a lightness and a movement, the rough, almost unfinished quality to the cuff of the sleeve and the lightness of the pants which seem to have been in some sort of explosion or near an awful lot of sparks judging by the singed holes in the pants, and the fanny pack? satchel? that adds a utilitarian harder edge to what would otherwise be a very airy-looking delicate shot. perfect combination...

...This was my absolute favorite shot in that it captures more of a refined look. Theres a much more constructed quality to the garments, less of a loose edge to them, but still a bit rough around the edges. Wonderful mixture of textures, colour and pattern. This shot to me was the most Mechanized-Machine-Age-Post-Apocalyptic-Sky-Captain-Meets-Star-Wars-esque with all the straps and laces to the satchel, the rough, but refined motorcycle jacket, and mostly the pixelated hexagonal gilded pants really reinforced this vision...

Thursday, July 22, 2010

West Village Bachelor Pad...

Welcome to the Ultimate West Village bachelor pad. This place screams C.B.G.B. rocker lifestyle; heavy on the black with plenty of exposed industrial beams, brick and just enough woodland-sy, deer antlered, whiskey swigging accents to round off the entirely masculine vibe...and you just know the apartment only ever looks this clean on photo-shoot day...

...excellent mixture of grays, serious blacks, and natural wood tones...

...conveys a mood of antique eclecticism while maintaining masculinity...

...its the non-store bought individualistic items that give a place character...

...it wouldn't be a bachelor's pad without a closet devoted entirely to booze...

...the kitchen space maintains the same unique aesthetic...

...towel rack!? thats for pansy city-slickers, just use dead animal antlers...

...somehow they've managed to bring the Adirondacks to the City...

...without making it look too "Disney-Magic"...

The home of veteran fashion photographer Carter Smith, this place takes the stereotypical bachelor's pad and gives it a heightened sense of ....well, "refined scruffy-ness". Its sort of the professional Hipster look you often see young 30 somethings undertaking when they realize they've the money to burn and an appearance [hygiene] to maintain...Apart from having an inspiring pad, Smith also seems to be a damned good photographer to boot. Just take a look at some of his past works...

...Lily Cole. Potentially the source of the antler / bathroom idea...

...The Chicest of strolls through Washington Square Park...

...ok, now we're just getting into Hippie territory here...
rustic...woodsy, I'm thinking Smith likes that...

...Just a silly ad for Zara, but its very Cartier Bresson-esque...

Saturday, July 17, 2010

The Architect loves Fashion...

After a recent trip to New York City, and subsequently Barneys New York, I was inspired to put my affinity for fashion into words. As an architectural student i'm drawn to clothing that naturally, is architectural, highly detailed, graceful or truly progressive. I think my great love of the garment comes from a much more artistic side of myself since I often find myself enthralled by both the mens and womens shows and while I've often considered pursuing a career in fashion, I just don't see myself as the "type" of person who can be solely devoted to it, and I think a big part of it is this sense that at the end of the day...fashion is purely art, to be appreciated and admired. Architecture on the other hand is both art, but also function and has the potential to serve humanity's greater good...when you're not just designing East-Hampton summer houses.

These are just a few of the Brands I've found the most unique, progressive, and worthwile...



BALENCIAGA

Balenciaga, under the direction of Nicolas Ghesquiere, has been the perennial front runner in my opinion, of brands that truly push the envelope. While the collections seem to rotate between "artistic-genius-but-highly-unwearable" to "ultra-luxe-and-flying-off-the-racks-at-Goodman's" from season to season, Ghesquiere has single handedly saved the brand from an eternity spewing out cheap-leather goods and outdated perfumes as a licencing brand into the powerhouse it has been restored to today. This is THE brand I make it my first priority to see whenever there is a new collection out. Needless to say this is the most architectural of the brands with clothing thats inherently structural, deeply evocative, and truly progressive...

...here are some of the most memorable moments from Balenciaga thus far...

...the most recent Fall 2010 show...



I cant even begin with Balenciaga. Just utter brilliance. The video says it all, truly...



BALMAIN

Balmain is currently the hottest fashion house. Hands down. If you're a major upscale retailer, you book your orders before the show even begins with this one because you just know whatever Christophe Decarnin chucks down that runway will be flying off the racks at Barney's and Bergdorf's. Come shipment day, if you'd ever had doubts that the well heeled would ever wait in line for anything, then the line out the door will make you a believer. But thats just what Balmain under the direction of Christophe Decarnin does. To quote Carmen Cass "The way they're tailored and the way they [the clothes] sit on your body, you feel the movement, whereas normally you move your body somehow these clothes make your body move in a certain way." And thats so unique in a time when 90% of even the luxury brand clothing is made in 3rd world factories, that a pret-a-porter collection would be able to elevate you to the status of a truly well crafted, emotionally evocative work of art and influence the way we live our lives...

...as always with Balmain, serious Rocker-vibes...

...the always insightful, Carmen Cass...

...the ultimate rocker cocktail dress...



GIVENCHY

Givenchy under the direction of Riccardo Tisci has become a much more somber, and decidedly "Catholic" brand, which gives the brand a certain austerity yet doesn't detract from the Byzantine vibes we find so mysterious about Givenchy. Inspired more this season by the jet-set ski club rather than that moody otherworldly warrior from past collections, this one is a decidedly welcome departure from the usual. As always, its the construction of the clothes that set this brand apart from the usual high-end department store banal and create some truly new ways of constructing the "carbon copy basics".

...creative modern fusion of ski-suit and Nordic sweaters...

...multiple layers, lengths, materials and structure...

...very modern take on the little black dress. Modern. Moody.
and that wonderful unexpected lining adds to the entire "sinister-luxe" look...

...if this isn't an evocative / emotional garment...then I quit...



LANVIN

Lanvin, Lanvin, Lanvin. Where do I even start with Alber Elbaz? I cant really so you'll have to watch the video.



...Its his work with the materials from the outset that really impresses me. The fact that he takes such a banal material (jersey) and works with it over and over until he's created a flawless voluminous sculptural object that you can see would give a certain authoritative presense to those whom are lucky enough to be able to wear Lanvin.


...so you see its all about the emotion, the feeling, the mood, the cut, the structure
of a garment that takes it from being just another high-end high-gloss luxury garment
and turns it into a work of art...

Tuesday, July 13, 2010

Design on the Cheap...

I'm a great fan of Interior Design and all things home related, considering...I'm a student of Architecture. For some reason there always seems to be this monumental rift between the professional fields of Interior Design and Architecture. I'm sure it has a little something to do with the two professions working closely with each other, a little bit of miscommunication, and a dash of misogyny, but I for one refuse to prescribe to such petty infighting when all either of them want to do is provide a life-enhancing space for which people can grow, be happy, and live life to its fullest.

I've always been someone who's had a natural knack for feathering-one's-pad, collecting vintage maps, oversized lamps, and the odd eclectic objet'd art. Thats why when I had to pack my bags and move 1000 miles to Boston, a city I'd never been to before, I knew I couldn't take anything other than the barest of minimums. For the first three months I lived on the floor, calling it my "neo-minimalist-tatami-lifestyle" phase. Its hard living so far away from home in the first place, but living life without all the beautiful things I had amassed was surprisingly easy yet bittersweet. I've had mixed feeling since then about all of that wonderful "clutter". On the one hand its things that really don't get used alot...I mean who needs a 1940's vintage mahogany travel alarm clock, or that 1960's brass elephant money-bank...or the Tibetian hand bells that get rung what...every bi-annual room-clean out where I only ring them because I'd forgotten what they even sound like.

But for all the beautiful clutter, life without beautiful things is hard at best, painful at worse. Because I'm just a lowly Architecture student here in Boston that also meant that my aspirations of living the "Boston" lifestyle were harshly and swiftly put out of my mind upon seeing the average monthly cost it takes to even afford a studio in these neighborhoods. Instead I settled in Cambridge, in whats known as a "triple deckah". Or in other words...a soul crushingly spartan rooming house that consists of a long narrow dark hallway, a dark kitchen and four very tiny, very small closeted linoleum tiled bedrooms. Needless to say, the walk to school every day through Beacon Hill and down Commonwealth sent pangs of frustration all throughout my very being.

And thats when I decided I'd had enough. I'd always sort of had this idea in the back of my head that I wanted to trompe l'oeil the walls of my home with something fun. Not entirely a fresco, yet not entirely abstract. I wanted to give myself something to look forward to coming home to at the end of each day. Everybody needs a little grandeur in their lives which is what makes Boston so special a place to live. The only problem was that the minute I passed my threshold into my apartment it was like my heart sunk. Being an Architectural student I wanted to do something that was architectural, and like much the things I like...a little like an assault on tradition. So thats why I decided to use a 2" painter's tape to create the look of a Georgian Townhouse complete with fireplace. After all if "I couldn't live in a Back Bay apartment, I'd bring the Back Bay apartment to me"...

...the outlet was chosen as the symbolic "hearth" or focal piece and logical
placement of the fireplace in the room...age of technology and all...

...everybody needs a bit of modern art above their mantelpiece...

...the wall of "personalities" reminding me every day as I get ready to go out
into the world to be myself, be my personality, be my eccentric me...

...the wall of surprisingly non-depressing Dorothea Lange photographs,
more Van Gogh, and some Piranesi classical woodcuts...

I really enjoy my room, and I hope in showing you this you'll be inspired to do your own thing!

My Girl...Tuesday!?

Another great advertisement from our friends over at Oliver peoples, this one is an "oldie-but-a-goodie" so to speak (2009 Campaign).

Sunday, July 11, 2010

West Village Vintage...

One of my favorite designers to date is S. R. Gambrel, if you haven't heard of him yet its ok, he's relatively under-appreciated considering he hasn't done the ubiquitous designer-turned shiny faced-continually-grinning host of his own HGTV show. Based mainly in New York city, this talented designer deftly mixes vintage influences and that slightly off brand sense of intense colour and pattern thats hot-on-the-heels of the well-heeled Kelly Wearstler, though with a much more masculine and ...shall we say... subdued / livable vibe.

...every west village walk-up needs its own vestibule...

...I'm a sucker for good hardwood herringbone floors...

...office space...

...which has its own seating / reading nooks...

...and notice the high-gloss black lacquered doors...

...the master bedroom space...I think the client liked blue / turquoise...

...you know its good design when theres a klismos chair involved...

...the guest bedroom...a bit more subdued don't you think...

...every child needs an Ikat patterned bedroom...

...Kudos for not going ALL WHITE SUBWAY TILE in the bathroom...

...the closet space, just enough space for function and display...

...oh to have such a luxury of space for all your shoes...

...Master bathroom...

...looking into the Reception room...

...there's a strong 1940's eclectic theme going on in this room...

...sort of a mixture of neo-traditional in updated fabrics and finishes...

...very West Village bohemian...without the oil-paint stained floors...

...the Formal Dining room had me with the Lacquered walls...

...The basement kitchen is wonderful in that it retains character...

...utilitarian...unapologetically sparse in the most refined manner...

...and oh to have such a space in the city...

Check out his Portfolio, its full of some pretty serious high-gloss trendy-traditional interiors.